From the get-go, Rachel and I bonded over our love of travel. We’d spent the first part of our lives figuring this out on our own, and we were eager to begin exploring the world together as partners. The earliest RAdventures ranged from short hops to Yellow Springs, to shooting an elopement in Tennessee, to a Christmas train trip out to the Pacific Northwest.
Fast forward to 2017, and with my 30th birthday less than a year away, we started planning a celebratory trip to Costa Rica. Being a lover of all things nature and sustainability, the small Central American country–chock full of rainforest, volcanoes, both Pacific and Caribbean coasts, wildlife galore, and ecotourism options–was at the top of my wish list of places to visit. (Costa Rica accounts for only 0.03 percent of the earth’s surface, however it contains nearly 6 percent of the world’s biodiversity!)
With such an extensive variety of terrain and climates (twelve climatic zones!), we decided to break up our two weeks into six segments. This kept us on the go more than we would normally prefer, but we wouldn’t change a thing. Now we have a better idea of what most of the country has to offer and where to spend more of our days next time, insha’Allah.
Learn more below, about the places we stayed, the people we met, what we learned, and general tips you may find useful on your next adventure.
Alajuela
The first two nights in Costa Rica we spent becoming acclimated to our new environment. Arriving late at night, we chose our first airbnb mainly because of its close proximity to the airport. In an earlier life, Flor de Mayo was an exotic bird sanctuary. Now the 8-acre oasis in the urban jungle on the outskirts of the capital city is a guest house welcoming travelers from around the world.
Our hosts Carol and Pablo picked us up from the airport, and for the next two days, our time was filled to the brim with laughter, connection, and vibrant stories–usually narrated by Spanish-speaking Pablo, a Costa Rican native, and translated by Carol, an English speaker with roots the world over. They told us about the city’s rich tradition of public storytelling and strong sense of community activism, with scenes played out regularly at the town square.
We also learned a great deal about the not-so-pretty side of life in paradise, including political corruption and the ongoing struggle to protect the property’s natural resources from contamination by shady developers. While overall we enjoyed the theatrical storytelling, at times it was awkward to constantly be reminded of the negative energies at play, detracting from what could’ve been a more restful stay.
Other highlights of our time in Alajuela were meeting and sharing meals with other travelers staying at the 5-room guesthouse, cooling off in the spring-fed pool, fresh-as-can-be tropical fruit breakfasts, andcozy nooks for card playing and book reading.
Highs: close to airport, fresh fruit breakfast included, hosts willing to transfer to/from for a fee, a home steeped in history … if those walls could talk
Lows: no AC, not the most walkable part of town
Crowd: young, solo and couples, backpackers
Price: $$
Arenal
After five hours in the car with Pablo exploring the countryside en route to our next destination, we arrived at Heliconias Nature Lodge. Located near the Arenal Volcano, the family-run lodge seduced us with the story of its founding by a cubby woodworker of a grandfather. We spent two nights in a treehouse bungalow; our days were filled with relaxing in the thermal pools, touring the organic farm, coffee and chocolate-making workshops, and a field trip into town to eat at a local soda (that’s what they call a typical costa rican cafe). At night we dined at the lodge’s restaurant, catching up with new friends, often retiring early to our treehouse for Netflix and AC-chill.
Being in an area of CR known for its hot springs, we ended up foregoing a visit to one of the ritzier places (which charged admission to their private springs), instead stopping by the free, open-to-the-public option for a quick dip on the way out of town (same water source sans fancy facilities).
Highs: helpful staff, educational and delicious tours, hot springs, free transportation into town, breakfast included
Lows: isolated location/not within walking distance to town
Crowd: young families, honeymooners, retirees
Price: $$$
Garza
The longest we stayed in any one place was four nights in the sleepy town of Garza on the Guanacaste peninsula. Hosted by Maria and Rolf, along with their children Leo and Nadina, this experience felt the most natural and effortless, like visiting the most laid-back of old friends.
Accommodations were sparse, but there was no need for extravagance in a place which felt so much like home. Sure, it took some adjusting to a town not centered around tourism. Businesses didn’t keep regular hours. Restaurants (only two options;) would stop serving food unexpectedly or not open up on time. Tears were most definitely shed. But by the third day we came to expect the unexpected, embracing pura vida–a national slogan of sorts and the typical Costa Rican response when asking someone how they are–meaning “simple life” or “pure life.”
Highs: walkable town, least touristy, simple kitchenette, laundry for a small fee, neighborhood furry and feathered friends (dogs, cats, chickens, and turkeys!)
Lows: limited dining options, irregular hours of local businesses
Crowd: backpackers, free spirits, surfers
Price: $
Nosara
Harmony Hotel was one of the last places we booked before leaving for Costa Rica (the day before we left!). We were trying to find the perfect beach town for us, with memories of our favorite place in Thailand (Prachuap Khiri Khan) serving as our guide. It seemed like we would end up in Sámara, but after striking out with our top picks for lodging, someone I followed on Instagram happened to be in Costa Rica at the time and staying a few towns north in Nosara–putting Harmony on our radar.
After brief, 30-minute commute from Garza, we arrived in Nosara a couple hours before check-in. Nonetheless, we were greeted with welcome drinks and offered a place to change and store our bags until our room was ready. The superb customer service would be a mainstay in our short time at Harmony. By getting to know many of the employees, it was clear the staff was well taken care of, and to a larger extent, the community as a whole.
One of our highlights was taking part in an initiative between the hotel and a local environmental awareness group; we filled up empty soda bottles with trash collected from the beach and traded them in for milkshakes at the hotel’s restaurant! We also learned about all of the sustainability efforts being undertaken by the hotel via a free, staff-led tour with our friend Juan Carlos. If Rachel and I ever open a B&B of our own, it will undoubtedly pay homage to the ways of Harmony.
Highs: one complimentary yoga class per day, plenty of businesses within walking distance (organic groceries, fresh fruit and juice stands, poké joints), customer service, healthy food, saltwater pool, private patios with outdoor shower and hammock, minibar with homemade chocolate peanut butter cups, cute & well-stocked convenience store on-site
Lows: nada
Crowd: families, yogis, surfers, celebrities
Price: $$$$$
Monteverde
From the beaches of the Pacific Coast, we made our way back East. Our final airbnb stop, this Cloud Forest Sanctuary, was the first place we booked when we saw its fleeting availability, planning the rest of the trip around it. We’d learn along the way that Monteverde was founded by a group of Quakers from Alabama who were avoiding the military draft preceding the Vietnam War. Pretty cool!
Rachel and I were looking forward to having an entire home to ourselves for a few days. The Sanctuary ended up being more off the grid than simply spotty WiFi as described in the listing (i.e. NoWiFi, no phone, and half the time no power at all!). Luckily, Rachel had the foresight to ask our shuttle driver to make a stop at the grocery store on the way, and before we were completely cut-off from the outside world, she arranged for someone to pick us up the next morning to take us into town.
We thus survived the seclusion subsisting mainly on Costa Rican mac-n-cheese and buttered noodles, with empanadas, fresh fruit, yogurt, and kombucha to round things out. Breakfast in town at Stella’s Bakery was a bright spot (founded by one of the original Quakers), as were balcony visits by white-faced monkeys and a hummingbird intruder on our last morning–looking for the feeder the aforementioned monkeys stole.
Highs: privacy in the heart of the jungle, beautiful minimalist architecture and decor, cool nights, free laundry, full kitchen, nearby “Whole Foods” (not the real thing … smaller and better!)
Lows: off. the. grid. (no internet or phone!), isolated location/not within walking distance to town
Crowd: families, adventurers
Price: $$$
San José
And with that, we were headed back to the capital city for our last three nights. The cheapest airline tickets we found had us departing Costa Rica at 8AM, so proximity to the airport was a priority yet again. We stumbled upon Ama Tierra after visiting Finca Luna Nueva during the second leg of our adventure–where we were on the hunt for vanilla beans and turmeric we learned about in our chocolate-making workshop with Ishmael. Mmmmmm. I digress.
While not confined to the closest quarters of all the places we stayed, Ama Tierra ended up feeling the most intimate. Maybe it was the honeymoon suite–complete with two queen beds :/–or perhaps it was the good vibes emanating from the surplus of yogis in attendance. Most probably it was a combination of a craving for connection after ten days more or less on our own, the fact mealtimes were a communal experience, and that the rest of the time we could be found poolside with at least a few other guests (of the 10 or so total).
Being surrounded by such a health-conscious group of humans did have its difficulties. It was easy to mistake well-intentioned, innocent comments as judgement and peer pressure. But when we processed our emotions together, it was clear how much care, compassion, and healing were at work in this sacred space.
Highs: close to airport, free guided meditation daily, healthy and delicious food, pool, family-style dinners
Lows: no AC, reception/only indoor common space closed for afternoon siesta, isolated location/not within walking distance to town
Crowd: yogis, young couples, retirees
Price: $$$
Packing list
- backpacks // Since returning from Southeast Asia three years ago, our honeymoon packs have been collecting dust in the basement. It felt great to put them to use again, and it made traveling within Costa Rica much more comfortable. (his, hers)
- packing cubes
- books // This is How it Always Is, The Sabbath, The Sacred Enneagram, and another book not worth mentioning
- Journals
- pen & paper
- Travel bambooware
- Neck pillows
- Eye masks
- Ear plugs
- sunscreen // SPF 50, SPF 25, SPF 20/Facial
- Bug spray
- hats // his, hers
- playing cards
Photo tips
- Edit as you go.
- Delete as you go
- Use heart (on iPhones, or other icon to indicate favorites on non-iPhones) to mark faves and delete all the ones around it.
- Print out an album when you get home!
Regrets
- Taking too many clothes, shoes, and toiletries … per usual.
- Changing money at the airport. Most everywhere in the big cities accepts dollars, so avoid getting ripped off at the airport and wait to exchange for colones at a bank nearby your first stop.
Transportation
- We enjoyed booking private transfers through our hosts as we went, which lent itself nicely to flexible scheduling and getting to not as touristy of destinations. We also heard great things about shuttle service Interbus.
- Even though Costa Rica is pretty compact and distances between cities may seem short, factor in more travel time than you might expect due to narrow gravel roads and unexpected detours.
Helpful apps
- Google Maps
- Download an offline map of a certain region or the entire country to use on your phone regardless of cell reception or WiFi availability.
- Google Translate
- Download the Spanish dictionary to have the same offline benefits as above.
- Waze
- Especially if you’re renting a car, we were told by locals directions from this app were more reliable than Google’s.
- Spanish verbs
- If you have a basic grasp of Spanish already (like our three year stints in high school), this may help ease the tension during any moments lost in translation.
Expecting the unexpected (and other awkward moments)
- When staying at a smaller lodge or airbnb and your host is very passionate about a certain subject, expect said subjects to dominate most of your conversations (especially potent if they can tell you’re a good listener).
- If you’re let down easily when your expectations aren’t met (who isn’t?), over-communicate and ask clarifying questions from the get-go:
- What exactly is included with the meals you provide? (i.e. half a mason jar of cornflakes and no milk for breakfast or a miniscule serving of soup, salad, and a cookie for lunch)
- What’s the cost of the energy work you just sweet talked me into?
- Anything we should know about local businesses and restaurants (i.e. they’re notorious for closing early/opening late or the lobby will be closed every afternoon so the staff can take a siesta)
- Expect rules like no phones at dinner when staying at a health-centric establishment.
- If you opt for arranging private transportation, you’re the boss. So speak up if you need to use the bathroom, stop for food, or if you’re not comfortable with the driver picking up their friend along the way.
